The Ins And Outs Of Purchasing Water Ski's

Author: KevinManner
Those who take up waterskiing call it challenging and fun, but how much anybody gets out of the activitydepends a great deal on thehow well the water ski equipment was made and how well it suits the owner.So how does one choose the right water skis and equipment to go along with them?

When you're at a water ski equipment store, it's important to know one's skill level. For those just starting out,the most common type of water ski to choose from is usually a set of combination pairsbecause of how wide they are and how much easier they are to learn on. The second most popular type of water ski is the slalom water ski kind. A slalom water ski is typically used by those who like to ski with only one ski,and are also perfect for those who are more skilled. Trick skis and jump skis are the two other types but aren't for beginners.

As for the design and construction of one's water ski equipment, you'll need to know that, most water skis these days are made out of fiberglass related materials both of which help to make them durable and water-resistant. The underside of the skis will either have a narrow tunnel or be concave. Narrow tunnel water ski equipment is for those who like to ski standing straight up and with their weight on the back of the ski, while the skis with concave bottoms are best suited for skiers who like to attack the water by skiing forward with their knees bent.

The rocker, the flex and the length of the ski can really make or break one's water ski equipment purchase.The rocker, which measures to curve on the ski's bottomis directly proportional to how quickly the ski will glide across water. If the rocker is bigger, the more speed that ski will produce. It's the same with flex, except that it goes backward. That means that the greater the flex of the ski,the slower it is on the water.

When choosing bindings for one's water ski equipment, fit and comfort are essential. On top of that, the bindings are chosen based on what type of water ski equipment is being purchased.

The water ski rope and handles should also be paid close attention to for your water ski equipment purchase. You'll want a lot of give in your water ski rope as the skier navigates through the water. As for what handles to purchase, you'll probably only be buying one becausemost water skiers now only ski one-handed. Comfort is also key too.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/sports-and-fitness-articles/the-ins-and-outs-of-purchasing-water-ski-equipment-3659257.html

How To Water Ski Safely On Norris Lake

Author: John Myre

Kathy was sure she was ready for this. True, she hadn't been on water skis for 15 years, but she had skied a lot as a girl.

Water skiing, she reasoned, was no different than riding a bicycle. It all comes back to you once you climb on. So, even though Josh didn't want to drive the boat faster, Kathy insisted he crank it up. Faster! Faster!

Ahh! The exhilaration of the wind in her face and the water at her feet. Ouch! The pain of losing control and flying head over heels, landing on her back, and having to be pulled from the water with a seriously sprained shoulder.

According to the National Safety Council, about 5 million Americans water ski each year, and approximately 6,500 require emergency room treatment. Most of these injuries are the result of carelessness and poor preparation.

Driver Prepare

* Learn and obey the "rules of the road" on water.

* It takes three to water ski:
-the skier,
-the tow boat operator,
-an observer in the boat. The driver cannot watch and know if the skier has fallen while also seeing where the boat is going.

* Operate in a corridor at least 200 feet wide, giving a safety area of 100 feet on both sides of the boat. The ski path should be at least 2,000 to 3,000 feet in length.

* The boat driver is responsible for keeping the skier away from dangerous areas. Take time to get familiar with the shoreline, shallow areas and obstructions. Keep the boat a safe distance from the shore, docks, and objects in the water.

* Be alert for boats entering the ski area. If one does, shut down the engine and wait for the area to clear.

* Always pull novice skiers slowly. High speeds are not essential to pleasurable water skiing.

* Always approach a skier in the water on the driver's side of the boat.

* Picking a skier from the water is a dangerous proposition. Your boat engine must be turned off and the propeller must be fully stopped.

* The boat should run parallel to the shore and come in slowly when landing.

* When your skier is down, raise a ski flag to alert other boaters.

* Equip your boat with a wide-angle rear-view mirror.

* A towing pylon, boarding ladder and speedometer are also advisable.

Skier Beware

* Know how to swim!

* Do not ski in unfamiliar waters where there could be unseen dangers. When skiing in new waters, take along someone familiar with the area.

* Never ski in shallow water, at night, or in front of another boat. Rough water is particularly dangerous since waves and a running sea will prevent the tow boat from keeping a smooth speed and course.

* Always wear a properly fitting U.S. Coast Guard-approved lifejacket. Lifejackets are required in most states. The lifejacket should be Type III, approved by the Coast Guard, and designed as a ski vest. It should fit snugly, and it must keep the skier face up in the water if he or she falls.

* The skier and the boat driver should agree in advance on the general boat path, and signals to use.

* If a skier falls, he or she should clasp both hands overhead to be seen and to signal they are OK. In a congested boating area, a downed skier should hold up a ski to show that everything is okay.

* Buy age-appropriate skis. Make sure the bindings are snug, but will release in case of a fall.

* Wear a helmet to protect against head injury.

* Some of this information came from the website of U.S.A. Water Ski.

Other Water Hazards

* Don't stay on the water too long. The sun, wind, waves and vibration can make you tired.

* Whether you are pulling or being pulled, do not drink alcohol, take prescription drugs or over-the-counter medications, or use illegal drugs that can impair your judgment.

* Use and renew sunscreen.

* Some special advice for those who like to water-tube:
-Stay well away from shore. Most injuries occur when water tubers come too close to shore.
-Before water-tubing, inspect the rope for fraying and the tube for defects.
-Wear a Type III lifejacket.
-Two people should be in the boat.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/sports-and-fitness-articles/how-to-water-ski-safely-186601.html

Early Norris Lake Spring Crappie Fishing Tips

Author: Stephen Long

It has been a long hard winter and one of the most anticipated events in the spring is wetting a line on open water. While ice fishing is fun and productive, there is nothing like being out in the boat after taking a few months off. What really adds to the open water fishing experience is the thrill of catching slab crappies.

There are many fishermen who wait in the spring for the crappies to move in to spawn. Don't get me wrong; if you find crappies on their spawning beds, the fishing can be fantastic! But why wait to the spawn when you can have your cake and eat it too. Crappie fishing right after ice out can be equally rewarding.

The water temperature right after ice out will be very frigid. After a few bright warm sunny days the lakes ecosystem will start to come alive. Many crappies in the early spring will be found deep. These deep water spots typically will be the last spots the ice fisherman were having success. By using light jigs and minnows in these deep-water spots, chances are you will have good success. But if you are really looking for fast action think shallow water.

As the water starts warming up, the insects will start hatching and small baitfish will move closer to shore. When that happens the crappies will move in right behind the food to feed. The best thing about early season crappie fishing is that the best times of the day to be out is during the peak of late afternoon and early evening when the weather is the nicest. Every lake is different, but the best early season lakes are the more shallow and muddy bottom lakes because they tend to warm up quicker.

If the lake has a small bay or channel the crappies will be drawn in there like magnets. Fallen trees, sticks brush and last years weeds will attract more insects that are hatching that the crappies will feed upon. This combination will become your "A" fishing spot. The water temp that typically starts this early season action is about 50 degrees. There are many fishermen who incorrectly think the crappies at this time are coming in to spawn. They are simply coming in to feed at this time. Crappies will move in to spawn a little later in the spring when the water temperature is about 65 degrees.

There are many fishermen that will use a jig and minnow. They will catch fish, but if you really want the fast action switch your presentation to a tube jig. The best depths typically here are about 6 feet or less. When you rig you tube jig, place a small bobber a foot and a half up from the jig. Cast and retrieve it slow. The bobber basically simply keeps your jig at the same depth. In detecting the bite, crappies will often grab your jig and swim side to side or the bobber will tip up and then move slowly down. The tube jig body is plastic so give the crappie a little time to suck it down. The best thing about the tube jig is that if you miss you will often get another bite right away. When using minnows for bait, you miss your done.

Once the crappies move in, the action can get very fast. This spring crappie pattern usually lasts a few weeks. After that the crappies move slightly deeper staging for the spawn and then move back in. So why wait for the crappies to spawn? You waited all winter. Early spring crappie fishing is a real bonus. Have Fun!

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/hobbies-articles/early-spring-crappie-fishing-tips-371987.html

Wakeboarding maneuvers

As with many freestyle sports such as snowboarding and surfing, there is almost a separate language of terms to describe various tricks. The more height, the more "pop". So therefore the rider's edge is very important to the height of the jump. Heading towards the wake chest facing the boat is known as a heelside edge; approaching from the other direction with chest facing away from the boat is known as toeside edge. A typical beginner to intermediate rider will tend to have an easier time hitting the wake heelside because it tends to come more naturally to the rider, while more advanced riders can hit the wake both heelside as well as toeside.

• Fashion Air - the rider curls the board behind towards the butt while keeping knees pointing down, arches back, and throws back hand up behind the head for a stylish vanity pose.
• Raley - the rider hits the wake and allows their body to swing backwards, up overhead, parallel to the water. The rider then swings the board and his or her body down and lands on the other side of the wake.
• 911 - Backside tweaked out Raley.
• Blind Judge - Heelside raley to backside 180.
• Krypt - Heelside raley to frontside 180
• Batwing - Toeside raley with Indy grab with the board perpendicular to the water as opposed to parallel.
• Butter slide - a rider approaches the wake, "snaps" the board sideways so that they can slide on top of the wake.
• Surface 360 - a rider spins the board 360 degrees while riding the surface of the water.
• Tantrum - a rider approaches the wake heelside and back flips over the wake on an axis perpendicular to the direction of the board.
• Tantrum to Revert - Tantrum to frontside 180.
• Tantrum to blind - Tantrum to backside 180.
• Whirlybird - Tantrum with a backside 360 (no handle pass).
• Moby Dick - Tantrum with a backside 360 (handle pass).
• Tweety Bird - Whirlybird without using wake for air.
• Heelside Backroll - a rider approaches the wake heelside and flips (or rolls) over the wake on an axis parallel to the direction of the board, as if he/she were following it around like a continuous loop.
• Heelside Roll to Revert - Heelside backroll frontside 180.
• Back mobe - Heelside backroll frontside 360.
• Heelside Roll to Blind - Heelside backroll backside 180.
• KGB - Heelside backroll backside 360
• Toeside Backroll - a rider approaches the wake toeside and flips (or rolls) over the wake on an axis parallel to the direction of the board, as if he/she were following it around like a continuous loop.
• Toeside Roll to Revert - Toeside backroll frontside 180.
• Pete Rose - Toeside backroll frontside 360.
• G-Spot - Toeside backroll backside 180.
• Blind Pete - Toeside backroll backside 360.
• Toeside Frontroll - a rider approaches the wake toeside and flips forward (or rolls) over the wake on an axis parallel to the direction of the board.
• Tootsie Roll - Toeside front roll backside 180.
• Dum-Dum - Toeside front roll backside 360.
• Scarecrow - Toeside front roll with frontside 180.
• Crow Mobe - Toeside Frontroll with a frontside 360 (Scarecrow with an extra 180).
• Toeside Front Flip - a rider approaches the wake toeside and flips on an axis perpendicular to the direction of the boat.
• Fruit Loop - Toeside front flip backside 180.
• Dev-glass - Butter slide one side of the wake and from that side jump all the way to the other side of the wake landing on a Butter slide.
• Bel Air - Tantrum without using the wake for air.
• Air Krypt - Toeside air raley with 180 degree turn, land opposite direction from take off.
• Hoochie Glide - Air Raley with melon grab.
• Basket flip - Double Beer flip.
• Osmosis 540 - Frontside 540 where instead of passing the handle behind the back, the rider pops the handle and catches it again upon the end of the rotation.
• S-bend - Heelside raley with hands overhead spinng a backside 360 horizontally.
• S-Bend to Blind - Heeliside raley with handside overhead spinning a backside 360 horizontally finishing with a quick 180 with one hand behind your back
• S-Bend 720 - Heelside Raley with hands overhead spinning 2 quick backside 360 horizontally landing in triumph. Chris Nolan was the first person ever to land this trick.
• Boardslide - a rider approaches an obstacle and slides the board—perpendicular with the obstacle—along the obstacle,with the obstacle in between the rider's feet.
• Half-cab - Switch stance fronside 180.

Bass Fishing Techniques: 2 Fantastic Tips To Improve Your Casting Skills

Author: Chris Mollo

Casting is undoubtedly one of the most important elements of bass fishing.  Quite simply, if you can't put your bait where the bass are, you can't catch any fish.  That's why it's extremely important to master the art of casting.

It seems like it should be pretty basic, but casting is not that simple.  There are a lot of factors that come into play, such as line weight, lure size, reel type, and rod length.  Your surroundings are also going to play a part in the ease or difficulty of the cast.

Each angler will develop their own style and technique.  When it comes to perfecting your casting, focus on skill and technique rather than strength.  While there may be times that you'll need to cast for distance, more often than not, short, accurate casts will be necessary.

There are two basic elements to a good cast, and they are:

1. Hitting the target - As I said earlier, accuracy is key.  Another element of this step is the ability to get your lure to the right depth and control it there.

2.  Imitating prey and retrieval - While some may consider this two steps, I think it just a 2 part single step.  You have to know how to work your lure as you reel it in so that it mimics the natural prey of the bass.

These 2 steps take practice to master, but once you perfect them, you'll see your casting technique greatly improve.  The first thing you need to work on is hitting the target.  The best way to practice this is to attach a practice plug or sinker to the end of your line and spend a couple of hours at the nearest lake.

If you can\'t get to the lake just to practice, you can practice in your back yard or a local park.  All you need is your rod & reel and a target.  If you do choose the park, make sure you have enough space to practice and no one is nearby.

Stand 40-50 feet away and practice casting into your target.  An old tire will work perfectly, or some ribbon tacked down with a few rocks can make a suitable target.  If you can cast into such a small area 3 times in a row, you should be able to put your lure anywhere you want in the lake.

Estimating depth is a little trickier, and you'll actually need a body of water to practice.  I like to use a 'countdown', or 'counting' method.  From the moment the bait hits water, you begin to count.  One-thousand, one-thousand and one, one-thousand and two, etc.  The longer you count, the lower your bait will sink.  This way you\'ll establish reference points for yourself so you can always determine the depth of your bait.

Mastering the art of casting is vital to your fishing success.  Hopefully these tips helped, but practice and knowledge is most important. 

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/bass-fishing-techniques-2-fantastic-tips-to-improve-your-casting-skills-2543339.html

About the Author

For more great bass fishing tips like these, visit Largemouth Bass Extreme.

Norris Lake walleye spawn in spring and when they have the option will choose to migrate from the lake up into feeder streams to spawn. If this option is not available they seek out shallow bars or shoals with clean bottom surfaces near deep water.

This toothy fish will eat virtually anything it can catch and get in its mouth. They prefer small fish and will eat crustaceans, worms and insects. They tend to be somewhat wary and prefer the safety of deeper darker water. Try fishing for walleye from sundown to midnight, particularly during the heat of summer.

Fish for Norris Lake walleye with live bait, crankbaits, spoons, small spinner baits as well as plastic worms and grubs.

SPRING 
Top Baits: Small crankbaits, small jigs and plastic worms.
Fish shallow to moderate depths as the walleye move into the shallows to spawn. Gravel ledges, points and submerged humps in protected areas are prime holding areas.

SUMMER 
Top Baits: Crankbaits, Jigs and plastic worms.
Fish shallow in the mornings and evenings and move deeper as the sun rises. Use lures that mimic crawfish as this is a favorite food of the walleye. Follow points and rocky or gravel structure deeper until you establish the proper depth.

FALL 
Top Baits: Jigs, crankbaits and spoons.
Fish shallow to moderate depths in the mornings and evenings. As the sun rises move deeper toward outside structure and use small spoons or jigs.

WINTER 
Top Baits: Jigs, spoons and plastic worms.
Try moderately shallow depths in the mornings then move deeper as the sun rises. Walleyes are less active in cold water, so move your bait in a slow, easy to catch manner and fish deep structure.

The TWRA and volunteers from the public sector, have worked to improve fish habitat in Norris for many years.

More than 21,000 structures have been placed in the lake since 1992. A wide variety of fish attractors have been used in an attempt to concentrate fish for anglers. These include brush piles which are used by many game fish, and stake beds which are primarily for concentrating crappie. These attractors work well, but must continually be refurbished.

Bald cypress and black willow trees have been planted in drawdown areas to create additional, long lasting habitat.

Shoreline seeding of grasses during the winter drawdown has the potential of creating spawning habitat and cover for young fish. Inconsistent water levels, however, have rendered any shoreline seeding projects impractical.

Spawning benches have been constructed to provide habitat for smallmouth bass reproduction.

You may pick up a fishing license online here

Download the 2009 Fishing Guide Here

Download the 2010 Fishing Guide Here

BLACK BASS:

The three species of black bass accounted for about 32-percent of the total angling pressure during 2003.

Spotted (Kentucky) bass make up a good percentage of the black bass population in Norris. Unlike largemouth and smallmouth, this species rarely reaches quality size in any East Tennessee reservoir. They also utilize the same habitat and compete with the more quality-sized smallmouth bass. As a result, anglers are encouraged to keep these fish for the table. There is no size restriction and the limit is 15 spotted bass, per day.

Norris is noted for its winter smallmouth fishing. The best fishing is from November to April. There were an estimated 26,675 smallmouth caught by anglers in 2003 at an averaged weight of 3.2 lbs. The current smallmouth regulation allows five fish (in combination with largemouth) per day with a minimum length limit of 18-inches.

STRIPED BASS:

Eighteen percent of the total Norris angling pressure in 2003 was for striped bass.

Norris yielded a 49.5 lb state record striped bass in April, 1978. A recent fish kill in 2003 which was related to water quality issues has severely reduced the number of large stripers in the reservoir. It will take several years for the fishery to recover and begin producing good numbers of the >30-40 pound fish that were common in the past.

Stocking was suspended in 1996-1998 pending the outcome of a food habit/competition study. Previous food-habit studies have shown a preference for shad; and few non-shad species have ever been found in striper stomachs. The study concluded that few game fish were consumed by stripers. There is a potential for limited forage production during some years. As a result, stocking rates have been reduced to three per acre.

As of March 1, 2005, anglers are allowed one 36-inch or larger fish from November-March and two, 15-inch or larger fish from April-October.

CRAPPIE:

Since natural reproduction of crappie has been below average during the past several years and densities are less than desirable, an aggressive stocking program using blacknose black crappie was begun in 1999. The decline in lake fertility and loss of habitat structure are two important aspects of reservoir aging adversely affecting this game fish.

Much of the habitat work undertaken on Norris has been to improve the crappie population and increase angler success rates.

There is a daily creel limit of 10 crappie with a minimum size limit of 10-inches.

WALLEYE:

Walleye accounted for over 17 percent of the total angling effort in 2003 and they are abundant in the reservoir. The greatest fishing pressure for this species is in the early spring during the annual spawning runs, but many are also caught throughout the reservoir during all seasons.

An aggressive campaign was begun in 1999 to offset the negative impacts of a failure in natural reproduction. These stockings have proven to be extremely successful.

Two strains and three distinct populations of walleye exist in Norris. The Lake Erie strain, stocked in the early years, is adapted to spawn on gravel points, while the Greers Ferry strain is adapted to making annual spawning runs in rivers. Current stocking uses brood fish obtained directly from Norris.

FISHING TIPS:

Spotted bass - Small white spinners, plastic grubs on leadhead jigs, doll flies, and crawfish crankbaits are excellent.

Largemouth bass - Crankbaits, top water lures, Flukes, Bass Assassins, spinners, and Carolina-rigged lizards all work during April, May, and early June.

Smallmouth bass - Good lures for Norris smallmouth are Silver Buddies, 1/4 oz (or smaller) doll flies, doll flies tipped with minnows, float-and-fly rigs, and large shiners. On windy days in late winter, cast small crankbaits to wind-swept, rocky banks. Early spring smallmouth spawn on gravel points which reach out into the main channels. Spinners or pig’n jigs fished at night on steep, boulder-strewn banks catch good smallmouth year-'round.

Crappie - Quality angling is best in the back of major embayments such as Big Sycamore Creek, Davis Creek and Big Creek. Upper river sections above Point 15 (Powell R.) and Point 31 (Clinch R.) are also good. Fish brush piles or downed trees in the winter, early spring or late fall months. Small minnows, plastic grubs, flies tipped with minnows, and small crankbaits work best.

Walleye - During river runs, troll or jig with minnow-tipped doll flies, Sparkle Tails, AC Shiners, Rapalas, or Shad Raps. In late spring, night anglers cast crankbaits into flooded weeds. Trolling with Jet Lures tipped with night crawlers, spinner-and-night crawler rigs, or with deep running Long-Billed Rebels and Model 911 RedFins is popular by the end of May on the lower end. Night fishing with jigging spoons, alewife or shad accounts for good catches in the summer.

Information Courtesy Of NorrisLakeMarinas

Here's How:

Attempt your first barefoot start on a calm day with glassy water.

Get in the water behind the boat and take thetowrope handle and a wakeboard or kneeboard with you.

Sit on the board with your feet towards the boat.

The tip of the board should be above the water and pointing towards the boat.

With your arms straight out hold the towrope handle between your legs.

Your legs should be just slightly bent and above the water.

After the towrope is tight and there is no slack left in the rope the boat should then slowly accelerate until the board planes and rides above the water, your feet still above the water.

Ease your way to the front of the board to prevent the board from bouncing.

As the boat speed reaches about 15 miles per hour bend your knees towards your chest and slowly place your feet onto the water. Do not attempt to stand up yet.

When the boat driver sees you have your feet on the water they should then accelerate up to your barefoot speed, which is your weight divided by 10 and then add 20.

As the boat is reaching your barefoot speed slowly apply more weight to your feet and stand to a barefoot position; arms straight in front of you, head up, feet shoulder width apart, and bend knees to a 90 degree angle.As you stand up the board should fall down behind you.

Tips:

Wear a life jacket when learning the barefoot start behind the boat.

Find a boat driver who has previously pulled barefoot water-skiers.

Here's How:

Let your boat driver know that a slow and gradual speed increase is all that is needed to pull a wakeboarder out of the water. The board needs very little to plane out of the water. Your maximum wakeboarding speed should be around 14-18 miles per hour.

The shorter the rope, the easier it is to get up. Rope length should be somewhere between 30 and 50 feet.

As you are in the water, have your body facing the boat, and the board perpendicular to the boat. The board will naturally swing towards the boat as you plane out of the water. Make sure the toe of the board is slightly above water.

Have your arms extended and placed on each side of your front knee as you hold on to the handle.

Pull your ankles in close, with your knees close to your chest, in a squatting position. The closer you are to the board, the easier the start will be. Push your chest slightly up.

Relax and do not fight it. This cannot be stressed enough.

Weight distribution and balance are key. As the boat starts to pull you out of the water, have about 60 percent of your weight on your front foot, and the other 40 percent on your back foot. This will cause the board to not waggle and go out of control as the boat pulls you up.

Stay squatted down until you are out of the water and balanced. Stand up slowly and with your upper body first.

Shift your weight back after you have stood up. Don't try to stand up too fast. Take it slow.

After you are up, keep the rope handle low to gain more control.

Here's How:

Place front foot in the ski boot. The back foot will act as a rudder to help with balance.

Flex the front knee and ankle, bring the front knee up to your chest.

The front knee should be snug to your body and your rear foot right underneath you.

Place the rope on the inside of the ski. (Right foot in front, rope on left; left foot in front, rope on right.)

Arms straight out (slightly bent at the elbows), chin towards chest, knees bent.

Point the tip of the ski towards the boat at a 45 degree angle, with at least 12 inches of ski above the water.

With your back leg dragging behind for balance, allow the boat to pull you and the ski up on the water.

As the boat begins to pull, keep the knees bent and back arched away from the boat.

Slowly stand up by bringing your hips towards the handle. Do not stand up too soon.

Do not stick your rear foot in the rear toe strap right away.

Do not pull the rope towards your body, keep the arms straight.

Do not point your head towards the sky to avoid water spray in the face, it will throw off your balance.

If you are going off balance, use your body to steer in the right direction.

Remain balanced, head towards the boat. Do not look down at the water ski.

When you feel on top of the water and balanced, slip back foot in the rear boot/binding.

Tips:

This method, as opposed to the two foot start, allows the skier to lean forward more to help the ski plane faster.

It is used by skiers who feel the boat drags them too much in the water.

Use a deep-V handle to stableize the ski, keeping it from wobbling from side to side.

Don't get discouraged if you don't succeed right away. This usually takes several attempts.